The
isolation of the temple of Abu Simbel is part of the
reason for its existence. Here, on the point where
Nubia ends and Egypt begins, Pharaoh Ramses 2
decided about 3,300 years ago to erect a temple with
a shape and dimensions that should frighten invaders
from the south.
Four 20 metre high statues of himself stare towards
any possible invader from the south, telling them
what power they will face if they continue north.
For the brave who should dare to enter, large wall
decorations show how Ramses kills Hittites, Nubians
and Libyans — the main enemies of Egypt in those
days.
The temple was officially erected in veneration of
the major gods of Amon and Re-Harakhte, but Ramses
was an unusually immodest Pharaoh, and if anything,
this temple tries to indicate that he himself is
larger than any god. It might be considered a
logical breach, but his claim to divinity is granted
by the gods he immediately overshadows.
Beneath the legs of Ramses 2, his family members are
presented in dramatically smaller statues like his
mother, Muttuy, Queen Nefertari, Prince
Amonherkhepshef. Dwarfed by Ramses, they are still
large than life. In a niche right above the
entrance, there is a statue of Re-Harakhti in the
shape of a falcon-headed figure, and a figure of
Maat.
The second Ramses was damaged by earthquake in 27
BCE. His crushed head and torso lies right in front
of the entrance area.
The interior of the temple is smaller than many
other temples, but with the exception of the side
chambers, it is arranged according to the standard
temple plan.
Right in from the entrance, a Hypostyle Hall is
dominated by the 8 Ramses statues, all 10 metres
tall, holding the ceiling up. The ceiling is adorned
with flying vultures. The walls of this hall show
the might of Ramses, and several paintings in good
condition show how he kills his enemies. On the
right-hand wall, scenes from the Battle of Kadesh
(now northern Syria) in 1300 BCE indicate that the
Egyptians fully defeated their opponents, the
Hittites. The truth is that the Egyptians didn't
succeed in conquering Kadesh.
The sanctuary contains 4 god statues, that were
encased in gold. Small in size compared to the
statues in front and the Hypostyle Hall, and
mutilated, you do not get the feeling that you have
entered upon the holiest of the holy of this temple.
On every February 22 and October 22, the sun ray
reach across the Nile, penetrate the temple, move
inside the temple, before it touches the four
figures. All except the one of Ptah, the god of
darkness. These dates were not accidental, as they
correspond withe Ramses birthday (February 21) and
coronation day (October 21). The shift in one day
was the result of a small inaccuracy with the
relocation of the temple).
Even at his wife's temple, Ramses 2 dominates. Of
the 6 statues in front, all about 11,5 metres high,
4 are of him, and only number 2 and 5 are of
Nefertari. Similar to the main temple, smaller
statues of their children are arranged in pairs
around the feet of the larger statues.
Over the entrance, there is a frieze of cobras.
The organization of the temple is very simple,
compared to other Egyptian temples, with only one
columned hall and vestibule and only two lateral
chambers.
In the Hypostyle Hall, there are 6 pillars, with
Hathor's capitals at the top. In this sense, this
temple shows far more respect for the deities
revered than Ramses' temples. But all over the
walls, Nefertari and Ramses are depicted in
different settings, proving their greatness.
Especially noticeably are the scenes where Ramses
kills his enemy to the admiration of his wife and
the god Amon.
The Sanctuary contains a striking statue of a cow,
coming out of the wall.
The process of salvaging the Temple of Abu Simbel by
moving it 210 metres away and 65 metres up took
about 4 years, starting in 1964. The job must have
been just as much a sight for those who could
experience it, as the temple by itself. As a matter
of fact, the media attention the salvaging got, is
one of the main reasons for the fame and popularity
of the monument today.
Archaeological and engineering teams of Egypt,
Italy, Germany, Sweden and France started at first
with stabilizing the brittle sandstone structures
with synthetic resin. Then it was cut in blocks of
up to 30 tonnes by handsaw. But as the Nasser Lake
started to rise, a coffer dam was put up, protecting
the monument and the workers.
A new hill was built behind and over the temple, but
hollow, now containing an air conditioning plant. It
can be entered by anyone brave enough to crush the
illusion of total genuineness the temples give away
from any other angle.
So how much did it cost? In mid-60's US dollars,
about 40,000,000. Who paid it? You and me and anyone
coming out here, both the stiff entrance fee and the
apparently unnecessary Visa fee to Egypt is still
being used to pay back for the huge job.
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