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There
is simply something very special with the name
"Alexandria". It creates images of a long and
exciting history, mixture of cultures, Africa meets
the Mediterranean Sea. And it is all true.
Yet, Alexandria tends to dissapoint most of its
foreign visitors. It is like there is too little
evident of the history, and the fine examples of
ancient remains are not up to the expectations most
people.
While the seafront is fabulous from a distance, many
ask themselves why there aren't more cafés and
restaurants.
Keeping all that in mind, it is not difficult to
have a fine few days in this city. You just need to
put some effort into it, walk a little bit extra to
find what you need. Because it is all there.
Egyptian boats are generally very colourful, most
with an individual pattern. It may be a combination
of the safety of being visible out on the sea, and
taking pride in one's boat. Some decorations are
created out of superstition, like warding oneself
against the evil eye (see the boat below).
Alexandria is unbelievably long. Most visitors walk
the streets and see the sea from the western area of
Manshiya; which also is the true city centre. But
east of the new library, a new row of houses appear
just as long as the one of Manshiya. And it
continues beyond this too.
If you have a lot of time, you could walk the entire
stretch, starting at Fort Qaitbey and ending at
Montazah. The 20 or so kilometres should be done in
3-4 hours. Or you could hire a taxi for the ride,
preferably going from Montazah, which allows you to
see the beach stretches.
I found it impressive, although not many of the
seafront houses looked as nice as they ought to. But
the total is great, and the road undulates along the
cliffs and the several beaches. I thought to myself
that I had started to understand why Egyptians are
so crazy about this city.
The Roman Theatre is modest in size, but in
excellent condition. It seated only 700-800 on its
marble seats, but had room for more spectators in
its crudely made galleries.
The structure deviates from the typical oval
amphitheatre, being semi-circular.
The scene is surprisingly small, allowing quite
limited shows being performed. Effective for
theatrical performances, scaring for fights.
The Villa of Birds, right north of the Roman
Amphitheatre is among the most recent discoveries in
Alexandria. It has gotten its name from its stunning
mosaic floors, depicting 9 different species of
birds. There is also the image of a panther.
The site of Pompey's Pillar and Serapeum is a
strange place, and a disappointing experience if you
go there without absorbing a little bit about its
history.
Originally, here stood the main temple of Serapis,
the Serapeum. The temple was situated on top of a
rocky outcrop, and had 100 steps in front of it. The
temple was also a library of religious texts, and
had three subterranean galleries where the Apis bull
resided.
The pillar, with its circumference of 9 metres and
height of 25 metres, was added to the complex in 293
CE, in honour of Diocletian. At some time in
history, the idea that it belonged to Pompey arose,
but there is no connection.
The temple was destroyed by fanatical Christians in
391 CE, and they did a thorough job. The great
pillar, however survived, together with a few
sphinxes.
The Fort Qaitbey has the most visible location in
Alexandria, located at the spot of the legendary
lighthouse of Pharos.
The fort oversees the entrance to the Eastern
Harbour, and has nothing but sea in front of it. It
can be quite a dramatic place when winter winds
throw large waves on to the city!
The fort is best seen from a distance, closer up it
has taken too much of 19th century taste to appear
as impressive and military as a fort should.
Muhammad Ali modernized what was then a 350 year old
fort, built around 1480.
The site was as mentioned the place where the famous
lighthouse of Pharos once stood. It was counted as
one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Its
dimensions are clad in legends, but it may have been
a tremendous 150 metres high. It is said that its
square base contained a staggering 300 rooms. It was
built in the second half of the 3rd century BCE, and
destroued in an earthquake in 1303.
It is assumed that some of the stones of the fort
are from the lighthouse, especially some huge
red-granite pillars in the northwest section.
This museum is counted for the best collection of
items from the Classical era. There are plenty of
excellent statues, sarcophagus, jewels, textiles and
tiny objects of all sorts.
The museum's layout is quite attractive, but things
in here may appear inferior and less interesting to
what you find in the National Museum in Cairo. But
if you make an effort, the exhibits here cast a
light on a part of Egyptian history which is
fascinating by its own respect.
The museum reflects Alexandria's importance as the
scene of the Serapis cult. This cult, a creation by
Ptolemy 1, intended to merge Egyptian and Greek
religion. Serapis was a god married to the Egyptian
goddess Isis and with qualities from Zeus and
Poseidon. |
