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Cairo,
with its 14 million inhabitants is one of the most
fascinating cities in the world, as so many
civilizations and historical epochs are represented
here. Nearby, the Pyramids of Giza, perhaps the most
famous human effort ever, is located, along with
many other impressive monuments. The central Cairo
is a bustling affair, often appearing like a group
of major cities without real borders in between. And
through the city, the life line of one of the
world's earliest civilizations run, the Nile.
People of Cairo are mostly poor, but proud. No
matter how many Euros or Dollars travellers bring,
they will always know that their people have
acheived something more spectacular than any other
people. This is more than empty facts, Egyptians
have such a strong identity that they have no reason
to feel inferior to anybody. Politeness and
friendliness to people showing attention to their
cultural inheritance, is the result. The friendly
ambiance of Cairo is there for anyone to experience.
Modern Cairo is soon 150 years old.
It was projected
with Paris in mind. As Haussmann had drawn wide
boulevards through the old and narrow streets of
central Paris, so wanted the ruler of Egypt, Khedive
Ismail. The occasion was the opening of the Suez
Canal: he wanted to impress kings and politicians of
Europe.
To large extent, he succeeded. Modern Cairo can
remind of Paris, but due to the difference of
economical strength between the two countries, many
of the houses of modern Cairo is often in bad need
of repair. Also, exhaust is today the most common
paint in use here. Visitors should also prepare for
the frequent sight of beggars.
But try to bring your focus away from the bad
things: modern Cairo is delightful for anyone
spending some time here. People are open and
friendly, there are plenty of shops for tourists
suffering from "antique fatigue", there are plenty
of cafes and restaurants.
As for shopping, you could well do a bargain here.
Shoes are of good to excellent quality (made in
Egypt) with prices from US$10 (€13) for leather
shoes. Clothes are not always of the same quality,
but if you look out for bad sewing you will be able
to find equally good bargains. While the shoe styles
are not very different from European and American
styles, clothes seem to be fluffier and more
coloured, or extremely conservative. It is your
choice. And for many foreigners, the fact that the
price tag is attached to every item (even what is
put in windows) will help you avoid being
overcharged. But the prices are in Arabic, so a
handly little handbook showing the decipherment of
these will be smart. It is really not that hard.
The National Museum
could be worth a holiday by
itself. The museum (its official name is Museum of
Egyptian Antiquities) holds some of the finest
treasures of human history, and is filled far beyond
the capacity of the 100 year old building.
There are as much as 136,000 items exhibited. 40,000
more lie in the basement, many are sinking into the
soft ground. A great number of the items are tiny,
coins or amulets, but prepare yourself for the awe
of facing great statues and treasures.
The museum was founded in 1857 by Said Pasha on the
initiative of the French archaeologist Auguste
Mariette, who had excavated several temples, like
the one in Edfu. The museum moved a couple of times
before installing itself in the heart of Cairo. A
new move, this time out to the Pyramids of Giza, is
planned.
al-Azhar
is today the most important religious
university in the Muslim world, with as much as
90,000 students. It is perhaps the oldest university
in the whole world (challenged only by the
Koutoubiyya mosque in Marrakech).
al-Azhar has preserved its old system of education:
Free boarding is offered and education is done with
students gathering around a teacher, honorably
referred to as shaykh, while sitting in circles. It
is the students who choose which teacher's lesson
they want to attend — it is not organized as
structured courses. Graduates receive a 'ijaaza,
which contrary to a leaving certificate indicates
that they have memorized a teacher's curriculum.
Old Cairo
is really compact, and you can with ease
cover a great collection of important Cairo sights
in half a day. And even include a coffee and some
shopping, too.
The most attractive parts of Old Cairo are the
Coptic quarters, with the Hanging Church, the
friendly and attractive Coptic Museum, which
reflects the period where ancient Egypt changed into
Christian and Muslim Egypt. Around these two sights,
lie a collection of churches which all seem to claim
an important part of Christian history. Tucked away
between them all is one of the few remaining
synagogues still in use in Egypt.
The most attractive sight in Old Cairo is the
Hanging Church, so called because its nave used to
suspend over the road beneath.
That effect is since long lost, even if the steep
staircase of 29 steps in front is unusual and
indicates the uncommon construction.
The original church is said to date back to late 3rd
or early 4th century. But this was destroyed in the
9th century, and not rebuilt before the 11th
century. Since then have there been a great number
of alterations and additions. Some parts of what is
seen now dates no further back than the 19th
century. Much has also been repaired since.
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