Giza is
very much part of Larger Cairo, and although it is
statistically counted as the third largest city of
Egypt, it has really very little identityexistence
on its own. The architecture here is much of a
continuation of what is found in Cairo centre, but
sometimes the living conditions here are better.
Giza has really just one sight, but what a sight;
the world's most famous one. The Pyramids of Giza
lies a few kilometres just south of central Giza.
So, you though the Pyramids were out in the desert,
far away from settlements. When driving up to the
pyramidal area you realize. Above the roofs the two
largest pyramids rise up. From some angles you feel
like they're coming down from the sky, just about to
land on the houses of Giza. The truth is not far
from this. The residents area ends, then there is a
border of shacks, before the bedrock carrying the
pyramids rise some five metres above everything
else.
Even if the photos lie, the photographers did not.
Just 2 minutes walk up the hill to the middle
pyramid, makes you forget all about the metropolis
lying behind you. Hustlers here are just as they
have been for centuries. A bit aggressive, and all
set on leading you away from what you set out for.
Shun them, they're okay, but they don't seem to
comprehend that 4,500 years old pyramids are more
interesting when you can touch them, than they are
from the hills a kilometre away.
The largest pyramid
in the world is Khufu' (Khufu),
built almost 4,600 years ago. It's made up of
2,300,000 blocks, with the average weight of 2.5
tons. Some stones weigh up to 15 tons. It was
originally 146.5 metres high (before the casing
stones were removed), and 230 metres along the base.
The Khufu can have more to come. In 1993 German
scientists accidentally discovered a new chamber in
the pyramid, a chamber untouched by thieves. As a
corridor to this chamber will have to be made, it's
not sure if it ever wil be opened. As the content is
still undisclosed one could imagine. It is known
that the architects of pyramids made a great effort
to hide for grave robbers, confusing them into
believing that they had found the true tomb. Perhaps
the new chamber actually could be the tomb of Khufu.
Coming as far as the centre of Khufu (Khufu) pyramid
is actually a bit of a walk. You make your way
through low corridors which don't come recommended
to claustrophobias. These corridors are dimly lit,
enhancing the reddish colours of the stones, that
are cut to one another so tight that a piece of
paper can't make its way through.
When you're half they way, perhaps a bit scrubbed,
short breathed, you enter the main corridor having a
real staircase, and 8,5 metres of space above you
(top photo). It feels twice as long as its real 47
metres. The walls are made from limestone cut in the
Muqattam hills, overlooking modern Cairo. The
corridor is hot and airless.
Up on the top you have to bend over again, just to
find yourself in the emptiest room imaginable, which
is the king's tomb (bottom photo). There is only one
piece left here, the simple sarcophagus of Khufu,
but this simply enhances the emptiness.
There is no grandeur here, but walls are as smooth
as marble, while they really are made of red
granite. Its rectangular, that's all. 5 metres wide,
11 metres long, 6 metres high. That's when you start
saying to yourself: "Well, but I'm here. And this is
it. So it must be good."
Despite its simplicity the chamber has fostered many
myths and fantasies, some have believed that its
dimensions could be read as a prophecy of historical
events in modern times. Adolf Hitler had a replica
created under the Nuremberg Stadium, to have a place
to prepare before holding his exalted speeches.
There are several boat pits near the pyramid of
Khufu, 5 to the east and 2 to the south. The
designers of the pyramid complex designed it all as
a port for the Netherworld. The boats would bring
the pharaoh and the royal family on the eternal
journey of the sun, which they embarked upon in the
world beneath the surface of the world.
The solar boat which now is exhibited in the Solar
Boat Museum (ticket ŁE20, ŁE10 for students) was
discovered in 1954 in 1224 separate parts. It
appears that the boat was deliberately dismantled.
The reconstruction took 14 years, but was helped by
U-shaped holes allowing for the boat to be stitched
together by ropes or vegetable fibres. The boat is
an impressive 43 metres long and 6 metres wide.
The three queen's pyramids to the east of Khufu'
pyramid are the most noteworthy of several queen
pyramids around Giza. The southern (photo above)
belongs to Hensutsen, believed to be the mother of
Khafre. The northernmost belongs to Merites, the
sister and wife of Khufu. The one in the middle is
disputed, it might belong to the mother Redjedef.
That would make her Khufu' wife.
The queen's pyramids were used over and over again
for tomb purposes. Shafts were dug next to them, and
independent tombs (mastabas) were built as close to
them as possible.
Khafre was the son of Khufu, and of course he tried
to outdo his father's funerary complex. And well, he
did succeed. Not by erecting a bigger pyramid, his
became 3 metres shorter and 15% smaller in volume.
But he placed the pyramid on a mound 10 metres
higher than the ground of Khufu. So that is the
reason why his looks bigger.
Khafre's pyramid might appear to us as a perfect
structure with the exception of the stolen casing.
But there has been the discovery of some interesting
errors from the construction. As the engineers
started to climb toward the top, they discovered
that the four corners would not meet at the apex.
Hence the top twists just a little bit. Also the top
casing was not perfectly fitted, and the transition
between stones has deviations of a few millimetres.
It is assumed that the stones were cut on the ground
before being put into place.
But this does not change the fact that Khafre's
pyramid challenges his father's as one of human
history's greatest achievements. But it does
illustrate what a great challenge the ancient
Egyptians took upon themselves when building the
pyramids. |
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